Designers at Milan Fashion Week celebrated denim in ways that highlighted the fabric’s texture, versatility and ability to transform.
Velvet, sheer silk and denim co-mingled in Roberto Cavalli’s homage to ’70s bell-bottoms and robe jackets with stage presence. White frayed edges emphasized the grid-like pattern of Sunnei’s patchwork coat and coordinates, while Philipp Plein’s patchwork trench and sets took on a more abstract appearance.
Diesel, which used its runway as an opportunity to promote an upcoming collaboration with the condom brand Durex, presented a collection that creative director Glenn Martens described as “more condensed and concentrated, more grown up, fun and strong and playful.” The collection touched on four themes: denim, utility, pop and artisanal. “We push the experimentation with each of them,” he said.
Stacked legs, splotchy colors, crinkle effects, shredded surfaces and chopped-away waistbands were all part of Diesel’s formula for eye-catching denim. Jeans, tops and dresses that were etched down to partially transparent garments underscored the brand’s message of sex positivity.
Act N°1 styled sheer shirting and trench coats with cargo jeans and wide-leg jeans with topstitching. Denim corsets were layered over denim jackets, while jeans were punctured with skin-exposing grommets and spikes. The brand did the maxi skirt trend one better with a green mermaid skirt paired with a cropped jacket.
Ssheena made a case for cargo culottes as well as wide-leg jeans worn low—just enough to expose denim underwear. Blumarine continued to play in the Y2K arena with green-tinted jeans, buckles and low rises. Brushed gold highlighted the pleats on Cormio’s miniskirt and jeans.
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For the traditionalists, wide-leg jeans with vintage washes co-mingled with Etro’s chunky knits, check coats and silk pussy bow blouses. Gucci opted for ’90s-era coolness with slouchy jeans and oversized blouses and blazers. MM6 Margiela kept jeans loose and fluid.
Bottega Veneta, once again, supplied the most basic look with a tank and relaxed jeans, albeit made of leather.